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Image 54 of Park City Daily News April 1, 2012

Part of Park City Daily News

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Living PAGE 10D – Sunday, April 1, 2012 DAILY NEWS, BOWLING GREEN, KENTUCKY BITES Crossword small A WEEKEND CROSSWORD “Undressed” By Wayne Robert Williams 75 Hall of famer 1 Letter-shaped Roush hardware 76 Old-time farm 6 Springsteen's hand epithet 78 Haberdashery 13 Genial purchase 20 Mischievous 79 Oceanic elf abysses 21 Send a 80 N. Mandela's different way country 22 Of primitive 81 Parts of glasses echinoderms 82 Massachusetts 23 Suffer a close cape call 83 Promise to 25 Desert ravines marry 26 Killer: suff. 85 Before in a 27 Diana of the poem Supremes 86 Change the 28 Gather in pace 30 Night in 89 Refrain in a Naples children's song 31 Santa __ winds 93 Of bone 32 Noun-forming 95 __ longa, vita suffix brevis 33 Sentimental 96 First name of songs 7D 36 Sports org. 98 Rescue 37 Connection 100 Trappers 39 Hopper 103 Coloring 40 Mace source agents 42 Business bldg. 104 Vitamin fig. 43 "Laugh-In" 105 Stadium levels catch phrase 107 Narrated 46 Go bad 108 Bubble maker 49 Malayan 109 Bellicose deity wraparounds 110 Immortality 52 "__ Doubtfire" drinks 53 Like an opera 113 Pucker up solo 116 Incubator 55 "Pygmalion" occupant playwright's 117 Sculptor inits. Paolozzi 58 Of people: 118 Italian pref. geothermal 59 Actor pioneer Alejandro 119 West African 60 General country assemblies 120 Deaths 61 Sis or bro 121 Downs and 62 Feature of a Grant formal tuxedo 64 Toledo uncle DOWN 65 Tie tie 1 Of higher66 Juarez warning income 68 Eat quickly consumers 70 Site of Roman 2 Two-piece suits defeat of 3 Rust Perseus 4 Old money in 71 M. Le Pew Naples 72 Book before 5 Vietnamese Esth. New Year 73 Darrow or 6 Certain Thomas vacuum tube ACROSS Food news that’s easy to swallow Pumpkin ravioli wins 45th Pillsbury contest By The Star Tribune (Minneapolis) The 45th annual Pillsbury BakeOff crowned a $1 million winner – a pumpkin-ravioli dessert – by Christina Verrelli of Devon, Pa., who won the Sweet Treats category as well. The dish offers a sweet new twist on pumpkin ravioli, with flaky crescent dough, cream cheese and caramel sauce. 7 "Siddhartha" author 8 Periods of time 9 Jackson and Derek 10 Be superior to 11 Kind of wool or band 12 Of an ecological sequence 13 NCAA grouping 14 Auber opera, "__ Diavolo" 15 Sawyer's friend 16 Last call for a volunteer 17 Make an infield error 18 Clumps of fluff 19 One Ford 24 Narcotic 29 Slacks 32 Hot sauce 33 Pen names? 34 Pair 35 Gulf off Brittany 38 Egyptian souls 39 Colombian capital 41 Little more than 43 Informer 44 Mrs. Ferdinand Marcos 45 Attempt 47 Singing family 48 Crispy Mexican fare 50 Joey in Australia 51 Irish playwright Sean 54 Black as pitch 55 Fight hand-tohand 56 Machine for making angled cuts 57 Fool 59 Search messily 60 Tailor's assistant? 63 Moving in a curved path 64 Chirps 67 Puts in stitches 69 Priest's ordination 70 Annoys 72 Snacks 74 USN non-com. 77 Top of the line 78 Explosive letters 82 83 84 87 88 90 91 92 94 96 97 G-sharp Saloons That guy McEwan or McKellen Tympanum Dangling ornament Extensively Jackie's Aristotle Nonessential amino acid God of sleep Very wide shoe width 98 Laurel and Musial 99 Singer Mann 101 Lassoed 102 Duck or dodge 103 Semiconductor device 106 Males only 108 Bus. staff 109 Giant Moises 111 Latin suffix for plurals 112 SSS word 114 New World monkey 115 Acad. PUMPKIN RAVIOLI WITH SALTED CARAMEL WHIPPED CREAM Makes 24. Note: 4 tbsp. butter, melted, divided 2 (3-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened 1 ⁄2 c. canned pumpkin (not the pie filling) 1 egg yolk 1 ⁄2 tsp. vanilla 1 ⁄4 c. sugar 5 tbsp. flour, divided 1 ⁄2 tsp. pumpkin pie spice 1 ⁄3 c. pecans, finely chopped 2 cans refrigerated crescent roll dough (seamless sheets) 1 c. heavy cream 1 ⁄8 tsp. salt 5 tbsp. caramel syrup, divided 4 tbsp. cinnamon sugar Directions: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Brush 2 large cookie sheets with 2tablespoons of the melted butter. In large bowl, beat cream cheese and pumpkin with electric mixer on medium speed about 1 minute or until smooth. Add egg yolk, vanilla, sugar, 3 tablespoons flour and pumpkin pie spice; beat on low speed until blended. Reserve 4 teaspoons of the pecans; set aside. Stir remaining pecans into pumpkin mixture. Lightly sprinkle work surface with 1 tablespoon flour. Unroll 1 can of dough on floured surface with short side facing you. Press dough into 14- by 12-inch rectangle. With paring knife, lightly score the dough in half horizontally. Lightly score bottom half of dough into 12 squares (3- by 21⁄4-inches each). Spoon heaping tablespoon of pumpkin filling onto center of each square. Gently lift and position unscored half of dough over filling. Starting at the top folded edge, press handle of wooden spoon firmly between mounds and along edges of pumpkin filling to seal. Using toothpick, poke small hole in top of each ravioli. Using a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut between each ravioli; place 1 inch apart on cookie sheets. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon flour, dough sheet and filling. Brush ravioli with remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter. Bake 9 to 14 minutes or until golden brown. Meanwhile, in medium bowl, beat cream and salt with electric mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Beat in 2 tablespoons caramel syrup until stiff peaks form. Transfer to serving bowl; cover and refrigerate. Remove ravioli from oven. Sprinkle ravioli with 2 tablespoons cinnamon sugar; turn. Sprinkle with remaining cinnamon sugar. To serve, place 2 ravioli on each of 12 dessert plates. Drizzle each serving with scant teaspoon of the caramel syrup; sprinkle with reserved chopped pecans. With spoon, swirl remaining 1 tablespoon caramel syrup into bowl of whipped cream. Serve warm ravioli with whipped cream. Nutrition information per serving of 2 ravioli: Calories: 380; Fat: 25 g; Sodium: 440 mg; Carbohydrates: 35 g; Saturated fat: 13 g; Protein: 4 g; Cholesterol: 70 mg; Dietary fiber; 1 g.1 Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 ⁄2 bread/starch, 1 other 1 carb, 4 ⁄2 fat. Red Rooster in Harlem a cozy, diverse diner By JOCELYN NOVECK The Associated Press NEW YORK — It’s a balmy March evening just before the official arrival of spring, and a few diners are already happily venturing to the small tables outside Red Rooster, chef Marcus Samuelsson’s eatery on Lenox Avenue in the heart of Harlem. But outside isn’t really the place to be. No, to feel the buzz that is Red Rooster, one should really be perched on a stool at the horseshoe-shaped bar inside. It’s elegant, made of different hues of wood, but more importantly, it’s occupied by different hues – and ages, and types – of people. On this evening, the guests are black and white, Asian, old and young, gay and straight. They may be sipping one of Red Rooster’s signature cocktails – the Earl of Harlem, for example, bourbon with Earl Grey tea and coriander syrup. They may be snacking on the addictive cornbread with honey butter while they wait for a table. Or, like Naveen Pesala, a physician who’s worked nearby for five years, they may be reconnecting with an old friend for a quick glass of prosecco. But they’re all participating in something pretty rare in New York: a truly diverse, high-end dining experience, and one that brings people to Harlem from everywhere in the city. “I’ve even run into patients here,” says Pesala, who’s joined by a friend from SoHo for the evening. “It’s a very unique place.” Unique is certainly the word to describe Red Rooster, some 15 months after Samuelsson launched it. There was plenty of hype then, and no wonder: Even among celebrity chefs he was a celebrity, known for his speedy rise in the restaurant world (executive chef at the renowned Aquavit at age 24, and the youngest chef to earn three stars from the New York Times); his telegenic TV persona; his hip personal style; his unusual background (born in Ethiopia, raised in Sweden); and of course his admirers in high places. He was chosen to be the chef at President Barack Obama’s first state dinner, and Red Rooster hosted a recent Obama fundraiser. With so much attention, there was bound to be some quibbling. Some purists say the food, a mix as eclectic as Samuelsson himself, isn’t really soul food and should be. Others grumble about the prices (high for the area perhaps, but not for high-end restaurants elsewhere). A blurb in the Zagat guide calls the place “groundbreaking” and “uber-popular,” but also notes that “Unless your name is Obama, it may be tough getting a table.” More striking, though, is what people – even those who don’t feel they can pay Richard Drew/AP Marcus Samuelsson, chef and owner of Red Rooster restaurant, talks to his staff in New York. $15 for a cocktail – feel it is doing for Harlem. “It’s a great thing for the neighborhood, because he’s such a big name,” says Gloria Dawson, a graduate student at Columbia University who blogs about Harlem restaurants. “And the best thing is that this will encourage other people to take risks, and open other places in Harlem.” Dawson says she’s a particular fan of the fried yard bird (that’s chicken) and the shrimp-and-grits dish. She’s also partial to that Earl of Harlem cocktail. But mostly, she says, she loves the scene. “It’s visually stunning, with all the artifacts and knickknacks and Harlem art,” she says. “It’s also incredibly lively.” And most strikingly, she says, “You really never see this much diversity in other restaurants.” That’s a feeling echoed by food writer Andrew Knowlton, restaurant editor at Bon Appetit magazine. “I grew up in the South, and there was just a lot of diversity in the dining rooms – especially after church,” says Knowlton. “Now I live in New York, and of course it’s a super-diverse city, but when it comes to dining out, well, it’s pretty sad that way. So Red Rooster has really done a wonderful thing.” Knowlton feels the restaurant is a reflection of Samuelsson himself – and why not? “With his crazy background, Marcus has been grappling with who he is and where he fits in,” he says. “So he decides to move to Harlem and open this restaurant. He knows the power that restaurants have over a neighborhood.” But can a restaurant be both an international destination for high cuisine and a comfy neighborhood joint? That’s a dynamic the 41-year-old Samuelsson has clearly considered very carefully along the way. His first step was to move to Harlem, something he did about eight years ago. He’d lived in various neighborhoods, but had always been drawn uptown. He wondered why many other New Yorkers hadn’t been. “Why does someone from 89th and Columbus go to Paris more often than Harlem?” he asks, speaking to a reporter one afternoon during the lull between lunch and dinner. “That’s a real challenge.” But it quickly becomes clear that Samuelsson’s journey to Red Rooster began well before that, when he was a young black man in Europe, adopted from Ethiopia with his sister. He had a crazy plan of being a top chef. “Being a person of color, things were very clear,” Samuelsson says. “Being a chef at that level I wanted just wasn’t an option. “So you have two possibilities – you quit, or you smile and do it better,” Samuelsson continues. “I chose the second. And I said, ‘I have to go to America.’ ” After his success at Aquavit, Samuelsson opened several restaurants, not all roaring successes. But Red Rooster is clearly his most ambitious project yet. “It’s so hard to say that something is one-of-a-kind,” says Dana Cowin, editor-in-chief of Food & Wine magazine. “But Red Rooster truly is. It’s the food, it’s the vibe. But it’s also a cultural meeting place – for people in the arts, for people downtown, for people of New York, for people of the world. It’s almost more like a 1920s cafe in Paris, in that respect.” Lenox Avenue may not be the Boulevard Saint-Germain, but it was, for Samuelsson, an irresistible draw, given its rich historical associations with figures like Langston Hughes and James Baldwin. But it isn’t just history that determined his restaurant’s location. There’s a big subway stop at Lenox and 125th, a few steps from the restaurant. The bus goes right by. The express train from Times Square takes about 10 minutes. Once he found his spot, Samuelsson filled it with tiny and telling touches – reflecting both his own journey, like an ABBA album, and the neighborhood he calls home. Colorful art from Harlem fills the walls. He takes us downstairs, where workers are finishing construction on Ginny’s Supper Club (the room has just opened for business). The sleekly designed space will host different kinds of music – jazz and Latin, for example. Only this one, Samuelsson notes, “will have really good food.” Music is a theme at Red Rooster upstairs, too: The Sunday gospel brunch is extremely popular, and there’s a nook in front where a DJ comes to spin. Even the bathrooms are sort of a display case – filled with fraying black-andwhite photos of Harlem in years past. “So if you have a boring date, you don’t need to come out of here at all,” he quips, showing off the walls. But even a boring date, while unfortunate, wouldn’t keep most people from the dining room, which Samuelsson often walks through, shaking hands. A middle-aged white couple stops him: They want to report on a recent trip to Ethiopia. A while later, a 91-year-old black woman comes in for coffee. Samuelsson admonishes an assistant more than once to go check on her. “People need to understand why she left her house,” he says. “It’s not for the coffee.” Damaa Bell is a schoolteacher in the area, and also writes a blog on Harlem culture, Uptown Flavor. She herself doesn’t go to the restaurant that often, but would definitely consider it as a spot to bring visitors to the city. She notes, though, that the prices might keep some Harlemites away. Indeed, the cost of a meal at Red Rooster varies a great deal. A steak frites dish costs $31, and there’s a Sonoma County wine for $450. But there are bottles in the $30 range, a happy hour with cheaper drinks, and a lunch special for $20.12 with a menu typically reflective of Samuelsson’s background: a spicy peanut soup, his Helga’s Meatballs (inspired by his grandmother), and a devil’s food cupcake. Technology executive Vikas Sood is eating just that lunch one day at the bar, part of an ambitious sweep of the city’s culinary hot spots before he starts a new job. The verdict of this foodie? “It’s really good,” he says. “It may not be typical soul food, but it’s good!”

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